Italians Find Their Cuisine in Foreign Hands

While immigrant-staffed kitchens are the norm throughout Europe, Italians regard their food as an integral part of national identity. So what to make of the fact that the best carbonara in Rome is made by a Tunisian chef? The ensuing debate—whether Italian cuisine made by non-Italians is authentic—is likely to grow, reports the New York Times.

“If he is an Egyptian cook, nothing changes—nothing,” says one restaurant owner, whose staff of 10 cooks includes seven immigrants. Still, others argue that these chefs can only mimic Italian food. “Tradition is needed to go forward with Italian youngsters, not foreigners,” says a restaurateur who employs several Bangladeshis but handles the cooking herself. “It’s not racism, but culture.” (More Italy stories.)