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September 5, 2008 10:55:34 PM CDT



The Perils of Opening an Indian Restaurant—in India

Posted Jun 12, 08 3:10 PM CDT in World Glossies Arts & Living 

(Newser) – Modern Indian restaurants bent on messing with millennia-old recipes must "coax Indians into accepting the changes they make with beloved dishes," or continue to face the wrath of the "Authenticity Police," writes Shoba Narayan in Gourmet after an evening spent analyzing the paneer at Bangalore's upscale Masala Klub.    

"Opening an Indian restaurant in India isn’t easy," says Narayan, especially if haute cuisine is the goal. Amid a culture "famously possessive" of its food, creative young chefs must battle diners who view pan-Indian food "with deep suspicion." Regional variations in spice tolerance don't help the problem, whose solution, writes Narayan, is to shift the paradigm, rendering diners "too taste-struck to complain."

Source Gourmet

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The exterior of the Masala Klub restaurant of the Taj West End Hotel in Bangalore is shown here in this photo provided by Taj Hotel Resorts.   (Taj Hotel Resorts and Palaces)
An Indian cook roasts meat on charcoal in the kitchen of a small restaurant, in Mumbai, India, in this July 26, 2007 photo.   (AP Photo/Rajesh Nirgude)
Long hailed as the comfort food and holy grail of India's Tammil Brahmin people, getting the dish of rasam right(pictured here) is one of the many challenges faced by Indian restaurants offering a pan-Indian...   (Flickr ©, Charles Haynes)
Those who mess with beloved basics such as the dal makhni, pictured here, do so at the risk of facing the wrath of the "Authenticity Police" according to food columnist Shoba Narayan   (Flickr ©)
The Klub Masala restaurant of the Taj West End Hotel in Bangalore is shown at night.   (Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces)
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India   food   gourmet dining   dining   traditions   spicy food



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