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Subtle Cabernets Recall Napa's Heyday

Old-school wineries show 'balance and restraint'

By Michael Foreman, Newser User

Posted Aug 20, 2008 6:33 PM CDT

(Newser) – Forget "jammy fruit bombs" that crush the palate—subtle cabernets are making a comeback in Napa Valley. "You don’t hear much about these sorts of wines today," writes Eric Asimov in the New York Times. While critics swoon over rich, oaky cabernets, a few wineries still rely on elegant floral and herbal flourishes that made the region famous years ago.

Unlike modern vineyards, these purists use traditional techniques such as dry farming to produce a lighter, more balanced cabernet. Critics pan the old-school wines as "rustic or green," but Asimov says the floral aromas and flavors are hallmarks of the varietal: "Personally, I would enjoy a lot more Napa cabernets if they were dry, austere and harmonious."

[Images (3)]

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Subtle cabernets are making a comeback in Napa Valley. (Getty Images)

Critics turn their noses up at traditional cabernets "while reserving their highest scores for the sweet and plush set." (Getty Images)

"I think green is part of the varietal signature," said one cabernet producer. "People should know that cabernet comes from a plant." (KRT Photos)

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You don’t hear much about these sorts of wines today. Critics and consumer publications largely ignore them while reserving their highest scores for the sweet and plush set. - Eric Asimov, the New York Times

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Subtle Cabernets Recall Napa's Heyday