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Wagyu: 'the Hummer of Beef'

Esquire taste tests extravagant $130-per-pound meat

By Michael Foreman,  Newser User

Posted Aug 25, 2008 7:41 PM CDT

(Newser) – Wagyu beef, a Japanese tradition catching on in the US, uses cows “bred so that fat corrupts the striations of every muscle,” Tom Junod writes in Esquire. After sampling some at $130 per pound, Junod ponders how Americans can be attracted to such excess. Despite America's ecological awakening, "we respond with the Hummer of beef, the hedge fund of beef, the foie gras of beef," Junod writes.

Touring a killing floor temporarily put him off beef, but Junod came back around in time. "It was a decision that I felt I'd earned the right to make," he writes. But the extravagant Wagyu was a step too far: "I renounce Wagyu, so that I can forget the slaughterhouse once and for all, and go back to eating steak."

Wagyu cattle live the good life at a ranch outside Athens, Texas.
Wagyu cattle live the good life at a ranch outside Athens, Texas.   (KRT Photos)
Wagyu sirloin steak.
Wagyu sirloin steak.   (© Ozchin)
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We know that it is wasteful in terms of resources, promiscuous in terms of carbon footprint, and insulting to our self-image as citizens of a sustainable planet. We know this and we respond with . . . Wagyu! - Tom Junod, Esquire

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