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Alsatian Wine Takes Sweet Turn

The French wines have gotten sweeter, and its hard to tell what's in the bottle, writes Asimov

By Harry Kimball,  Newser Staff

Posted Oct 8, 2008 1:48 PM CDT

(Newser) – Fifteen years ago, a few Alsatian wines were sweet, and the rest were dry. But "dry Alsace wines have taken a turn to the sweet side, usually without warning to consumers," Eric Asimov writes in the New York Times. The change occurred at both ends of the market: cheaper wines are being artificially sweetened, and better vintages, using traditional practices, are simply bottling what riper grapes produce.

The rise in sweetness prompted an attempt by the French government to regulate sugar content, but the limits for Alsatian wines are so high they likely won’t make a difference. Some producers are voluntarily rating their wines, but the methods are so obscure that an unwitting oenophile will likely be in the dark. Asimov’s advice? “Know the producer well.”

A worker reaches for a bunch of riesling grapes.
A worker reaches for a bunch of riesling grapes.   (AP Photo)
A man smells a  Riesling wine during a wine tasting.
A man smells a Riesling wine during a wine tasting.   (Getty Images)
Pickers from northern France harvest the latest crop.
Pickers from northern France harvest the latest crop.   (AP Photo)
Bottles of wine.
Bottles of wine.   (AP Photo)
Wine grapes in Southern Germany.
Wine grapes in Southern Germany.   (AP Photo)
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It could have been a beautiful wine, but the dinner I had prepared, pork in a casserole with potatoes, would not have been a good match. I recorked the wine, with a vague thought that I should get some blue cheese or foie gras to go with it very soon. -

Part of the problem lies paradoxically with greatly improved vineyard practices, which produce riper, more concentrated grapes, and a determined adherence to natural winemaking techniques. - Eric Asimov

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