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Science Supersizes Thanksgiving

Our fare is not the same as the pilgrims'

By Evann Gastaldo,  Newser Staff

Posted Nov 27, 2008 2:45 PM CST

(Newser) – Thanksgiving food has undergone massive genetic changes in the centuries since the Pilgrims first prepared the feast, resulting in turkeys more than twice as big and corn six times as sweet. But human taste buds have evolved, too, meaning we don’t necessarily appreciate our new and improved fare any more than our ancestors did, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.

“Human-directed evolution has generated animals and plants that share little more than a name with their wild or pre-industrial farm-domesticated relatives,” Madrigal writes. Thanks to agriculture companies “hacking” DNA, food has been tweaked to the whims of consumers (more breast meat, medium-kernel corn) and retailers (longer-lasting veggies, easier-to-fry potatoes). Though some changes are “tremendous scientific accomplishments,” historians argue that the distinctive flavor of some foods has been lost.

Potatoes today are much starchier than their predecessors, because the starch makes them easier to fry, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.
Potatoes today are much starchier than their predecessors, because the starch makes them easier to fry, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.   (©foodistablog)
One reason turkeys today are so much bigger is because artificial insemination is used, allowing even the biggest turkeys to breed, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.
One reason turkeys today are so much bigger is because artificial insemination is used, allowing even the biggest turkeys to breed, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.   (©angela n.)
Americans eat sweet corn, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired. The maize that American Indians grew in the 17th century would have been more like the type we feed to animals now.
Americans eat sweet corn, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired. The maize that American Indians grew in the 17th century would have been more like the type we feed to animals now.   (©jiazi)
Unlike the colorful pictures we all drew in elementary school, modern, factory-farmed birds are all white, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.
"Unlike the colorful pictures we all drew in elementary school, modern, factory-farmed birds are all white," writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.   (Getty Images)
Pilgrims and American Indians ate foods called corn and turkey, but the actual organisms they consumed didn't look or taste much at all like our modern variants do, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.
"Pilgrims and American Indians ate foods called corn and turkey, but the actual organisms they consumed didn't look or taste much at all like our modern variants do," writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.   (©CarbonNYC)
The traditional Thanksgiving dinner reflects the enormous amount of change that foods and the food systems that produce them have undergone, writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.
"The traditional Thanksgiving dinner reflects the enormous amount of change that foods and the food systems that produce them have undergone," writes Alexis Madrigal for Wired.   (©Neeta Lind)
21st-century turkeys bear little resemblance to their wild forebears.
21st-century turkeys bear little resemblance to their wild forebears.
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