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Show Spotlights Avedon's Melancholy Fashion Genius

Major retrospective looks at photographer's legacy

By Jason Farago,  Newser Staff

Posted May 14, 2009 9:37 AM CDT

(Newser) – For 60 years Richard Avedon was the quintessential fashion photographer, and his black-and-white images established an ideal of beauty for a generation. Now, 5 years after his death, the International Center of Photography in New York is mounting a retrospective of Avedon’s fashion work. For Times critic Cathy Horyn, his career was a “plea for beauty,” even if beauty “had an element of tragedy.”

Avedon learned to take pictures in the merchant marine during World War II; his collaborations with editor Diana Vreeland at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue produced legendary photos, but a melancholy pervades much of his work—perhaps linked to the death of his sister, a beautiful woman committed to a mental institution. For Avedon, Horyn writes, “beauty could be intoxicating but, equally, impoverishing to the soul.”

British model Jean Shrimpton poses for a shoot while American photographer Richard Avedon lies on the floor, taking a camera from an assistant, in 1965.
British model Jean Shrimpton poses for a shoot while American photographer Richard Avedon lies on the floor, taking a camera from an assistant, in 1965.   (Getty Images)
Actress Marilyn Monroe poses for photographer Richard Avedon in 1957.
Actress Marilyn Monroe poses for photographer Richard Avedon in 1957.   (AP Photo/Christie's, Richard Avedon)
A 1959 photograph of Bridget Bardot by Richard Avedon.
A 1959 photograph of Bridget Bardot by Richard Avedon.   (AP Photo/Richard Avedon/Christie's handout)
Photographer Richard Avedon arrives for the Kennedy Center Celebrates Sondheim concert at Avery Fisher Hall, Oct. 21, 2002, in New York.
Photographer Richard Avedon arrives for the "Kennedy Center Celebrates Sondheim" concert at Avery Fisher Hall, Oct. 21, 2002, in New York.   (Getty Images)
Richard Avedon, who died 5 years ago, is the subject of a major retrospective at the International Center of Photography.
Richard Avedon, who died 5 years ago, is the subject of a major retrospective at the International Center of Photography.   (Getty Images)
Fashion photographer Richard Avedon and Harper's Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland supervise a fashion shoot of jewelery at Tiffany's.
Fashion photographer Richard Avedon and Harper's Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland supervise a fashion shoot of jewelery at Tiffany's.   (Getty Images)
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He cut the ideal figure of a fashion photographer. Generations of models have sprung across mid-tone backdrops, or sat pensively in cafes, or pretended to be in love or quite alone—all because of Avedon. - Cathy Horyn

There was a real sadness about him. He loved working, and he would be up for that. But it was like a performance. After that there would be a drop. - Norma Stevens, director of the Richard Avedon Foundation

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