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'Groovy' Dry White From Austria Great for Summer

By Harry Kimball,  Newser Staff

Posted Jul 8, 2009 5:20 PM CDT

(Newser) – A difficult-to-pronounce wine from Austria is “one of summer’s great, unlikely pleasures,” Eric Asimov writes in the New York Times. Grüner veltliner has risen above the pack of other Germanic wines to become a favorite in America, thanks to its bracing dryness. It "can range from crisp and light-bodied to rich and full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of lemon and grapefruit, flowers and herbs. Perhaps its most distinctive feature is a peppery spiciness."

Asimov’s wine panel, which tasted 20 bottles, found some efforts lazy, indicating that some winemakers are treating “the genre like a cash cow, confident that cachet will triumph over a lack of effort.” But plenty tasted great. The winner: the Domäne Wachau Federspiel Terrassen of 2007 ($15). As for pronunciation: Just say GROO-ner, GV, or the insiderish "groovy."

Domäne Wachau Federspiel Terrassen comes out on top in the taste test.
Domäne Wachau Federspiel Terrassen comes out on top in the taste test.   (AP Photo)
Hillside vineyards.
Hillside vineyards.   (AP Photo)
A copy of a Juliet statue holding a glass of white wine is seen on the opening day of the annual International Wine and Spirits Exhibition Vinitaly, in Verona, northern Italy.
A copy of a Juliet statue holding a glass of white wine is seen on the opening day of the annual International Wine and Spirits Exhibition "Vinitaly", in Verona, northern Italy.   (AP Photo)
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Grüner veltliner from Austria has not only survived but prospered on restaurant lists across the country. It’s one of those happily inexplicable things.
- Eric Asimov

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COMMENTS
Showing 3 of 3 comments
Observer
Jul 9, 2009 12:26 PM CDT
Cheers to my distant cousins in Austria. The most beautiful Nazi hideout in the world.
kokuaguy
Jul 9, 2009 9:50 AM CDT
Made me thirsty too !!!
brawne
Jul 9, 2009 2:31 AM CDT
Yikes. A lovely read that sent my taste buds reeling. Thought there would be a nice wine discussion. Didn't expect the Nazi thing. And of course true, but snap-- back to reality, here comes gravity.

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