Bourdain Sells Out With The Taste
Even as onetime nemesis Emeril redeems himself: Andy Greenwald
By Kevin Spak, Newser User
Posted Feb 20, 2013 1:37 PM CST
Anthony Bourdain attends "On The Chopping Block: A Roast of Anthony Bourdain" on Thursday, Oct. 11, 2012 in New York.   (Photo by Charles Sykes/Invision/AP Images)

(Newser) – Ten years ago, as Emeril Lagasse was birthing the entire misbegotten genre of "food TV," chucking the humble instructional Julia Child cooking show format "into the garbage like spoiled milk," Anthony Bourdain was slowly rising as his acerbic opposite number, writes Andy Greenwald at Grantland. As Emeril and endless Food Network imitators tried to make cooking seem entertaining and easy, the foul-mouthed Bourdain made his mark with "his steadfast refusal to coddle anything but eggs," writes Greenwald. "The central message of No Reservations was actually, no, you can't do this; you can't cook it, you can't recreate it, you can't dumb it down."

Which is why it's depressing to see him on ABC's The Taste, a cooking analogue to The Voice in which food is served and judged anonymously. It's a "tooth-grindingly cringey" show that undermines Bourdain's entire career. "His bedrock belief that food cannot and should not be separated from the richness of experience that surrounds it has been an eloquently stated and vibrantly lived refutation of everything The Taste stands for." The ironic part? If there's one good cooking competition on TV, one that expresses the "Bourdainian ideal," it's Top Chef, and this season it has a breakout star: Emeril Lagasse. Click for the full column.

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Showing 3 of 17 comments
Feb 21, 2013 11:00 AM CST
Bourdain is a drunken snob. Just because he'll eat anything put in front of him doesn't make him a good judge of food.
Feb 21, 2013 9:23 AM CST
Bpurdain should be embarrassed and disgusted with himself for being on such a stupid, idiotic show. Just proves that they will do just about anything for money. Amd who the hell are those other judges? Total unknowns, just looking to make a buck being on TV with another dumbo cooking show.
Feb 21, 2013 8:15 AM CST
Any New Yorker that puts ketsup on a hot dog should be buried in the subway..... no in NYC cares what he does.