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Germany's Dry Rieslings Go Down Sweetly

Quality has flourished over the past decade, Times wine critic says

By Doug Sweeney,  Newser Staff

Posted Apr 24, 2008 6:00 PM CDT
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(Newser) – The dry rieslings Eric Asimov sampled a decade ago in Germany were “tart and shrill,” he writes in the New York Times. So "how did they get so good" since? Lower-quality wines aren’t shipped to America, hypothesizes one wine importer, who nevertheless concedes that the country's great dry rieslings are more plentiful than they were 10 years ago.

Asimov thinks the increase owes itself to more "thought and care" from winemakers and an extended growing season compliments of global warming. Most rieslings are dry (contrary to American thought), leaving some concern that in-vogue dry wines will cancel Germany's production of the sweet. "One can only hope that the world’s taste for German rieslings with residual sugar will keep those styles in business, even if Germany itself no longer cares."

Pair French mussel soup with a German riesling for the perfect match.
Pair French mussel soup with a German riesling for the perfect match.   (KRT Photos)
The dry rieslings Eric Asimov sampled a decade ago in Germany were tart and shrill, he writes in the New York Times. So how did they get so good?
The dry rieslings Eric Asimov sampled a decade ago in Germany were "tart and shrill," he writes in the New York Times. So "how did they get so good?"   ((c) bonatto)
A worker reaches for a bunch of riesling grapes during a harvest in this Sept. 29, 2006, file photo, near Prosser, Wash. Dry German rieslings have gotten quite good, writes Eric Asimov in the Times.
A worker reaches for a bunch of riesling grapes during a harvest in this Sept. 29, 2006, file photo, near Prosser, Wash. Dry German rieslings have gotten quite good, writes Eric Asimov in the Times.   (AP Photo)
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