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As Food Prices Rise, Lobster Treads Water

In Maine at least, local economies dodge the perils of globalization

By Clay Dillow,  Newser Staff

Posted Aug 20, 2008 12:43 PM CDT

(Newser) – As global demand drives food prices to new highs, there’s one high-end food item whose price is in decline, Daniel Gross points out in Slate: lobster. In Portland, Maine, a pound of lobster costs slightly more than a gallon of gasoline, a ratio that historically was more like 4-to-1. And the prices get even lower farther upstate.

Global forces don’t affect the non-global commodity, so demand remains flat. With distribution costs going up, there’s downward pressure on lobstermen to trim their margins. “The only ancillary costs associated with getting lobsters from the dock to the table,” Gross writes, are “1) butter and 2) the statins that subsisting on a diet of rich lobster meat dipped in butter will require many consumers to take.”


The combination of an abundant harvest and diminished demand has pushed the retail price of lobster beneath $6 a pound, tightening the squeeze on fisherman struggling with soaring fuel prices.
The combination of an abundant harvest and diminished demand has pushed the retail price of lobster beneath $6 a pound, tightening the squeeze on fisherman struggling with soaring fuel prices.   (AP Photo/Shawn Patrick Ouellette)
A large Maine lobster is seen on the dock as a lobster boat approaches  to unload the daily catch of lobsters at Cundy's Harbor, in Phippsburg, Maine.
A large Maine lobster is seen on the dock as a lobster boat approaches to unload the daily catch of lobsters at Cundy's Harbor, in Phippsburg, Maine.   (AP Photo/Pat Wellenbach)
Flat or falling demand and increased distribution costs put downward pressure on the price of lobster, making it in some cases half the cost of beef.
Flat or falling demand and increased distribution costs put downward pressure on the price of lobster, making it in some cases half the cost of beef.   (AP Photo/The Canadian Press, Andrew Vaughan)
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For the price of a Quarter Pounder, large fries, and a Coke at McDonald's, you could get a one-pound lobster, accompanied by a quarter-pound of butter.

The longer the supply chain (ie, olives that are picked in Tunisia, shipped to Italy to be turned into tapenade, and then shipped to Dean & DeLuca to be turned into hors d'oeuvres for yuppies), the greater the opportunities for marking up prices.

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