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Rising Star: Washington Syrah

Syrah hailed the new American ZInfandel

By Victoria Floethe,  Newser User

Posted Jan 19, 2009 4:57 PM CST

(Newser) – Heavy-handed treatment of Zinfandel has left American palates lusting for big wines that don't blow you away, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher write in the Wall Street Journal. Syrahs from Washington state—which has more than 550 wineries—have replaced Zins as "the most exciting red wines being made in America today," write Gaiter and Brecher. Although made in limited quantities, these rising stars are popping up on shelves more often.

The standouts in a blind tasting: Dunham Cellars 2004 ("intellectual yet brawny") and Owen Roe "Ex Umbris" 2006 ("big, explosive, very American wine"). "The ones that get it right are sleek and graceful despite their size. The ones that don't are vulgar and coarse and muddled," Gaiter said after a tasting. "But it's exciting. There's a sense of exploration. I feel like I'm on a journey of exploration with them."

Syrah or Shiraz grapes have a characteristically deep purple color that is reflected in their wine.
Syrah or Shiraz grapes have a characteristically deep purple color that is reflected in their wine.
A Syrah leaf.
A Syrah leaf.
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We meet with Eric Dunham, co-owner and winemaker for Dunham Cellars in Walla Walla, Wash. Dunham is our 2008 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.   (WinePressNW)

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Yo yo yo! Massive, inky and powerful, with slap-your-face fruit. But an amazing amount of acidity and balance. - From the tasting notes

While they obviously had something in common with the Syrah-based wines of the Rhône, they were different, with more of a sense of stretching and yearning. - Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher

In time, though, kick-butt Zinfandel became a parody of its former self, with too much of everything except grace and complexity. It's like a bodybuilder who's just a hulk as opposed to one whose body is sculpted. - Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher

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