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Small Designers Try to Ride Out Recession

As downturn bites, young designers prepare for worst

By Jason Farago,  Newser Staff

Posted Feb 5, 2009 9:43 AM CST

(Newser) – The beginning of the decade seemed like a golden age for ambitious American fashion. New prizes, elaborate sponsorships, and an expanded New York Fashion Week made the early 2000s the age of the young designer. But now stores are reducing their orders or folding entirely, and money is drying up, the New York Times reports. Now, many relatively new fashion labels are preparing for the worst.

"To be honest, we’re writing this whole year off," said Andrew Buckler, whose eponymous label is showing its fall collection in its shop instead of at Fashion Week. It's one of several labels that have lost financing from banks, leading to layoffs, smaller collections, and scaled-down ambitions. But the economics of small-scale high fashion are grim; as one designer said, "We cannot afford to make clothing that people cannot afford to pay for."

Models watch a run-through before the Duckie Brown 2008 spring/summer show at Fashion Week in New York. Duckie Brown is one of several young labels worried about its future.
Models watch a run-through before the Duckie Brown 2008 spring/summer show at Fashion Week in New York. Duckie Brown is one of several young labels worried about its future.   (AP Photo/Seth Wenig)
A model for Zac Posen walks the runway during the designer's Spring-Summer 2009 fashion collection presentation Sept. 11, 2008, during Fashion Week in New York.
A model for Zac Posen walks the runway during the designer's Spring-Summer 2009 fashion collection presentation Sept. 11, 2008, during Fashion Week in New York.   (AP Photo/Dan & Corina Lecca)
This photo provided by Dan And Corina Lecca shows the Christian Siriano spring summer 2009 collection modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Thursday, Sept. 11, 2008 .
This photo provided by Dan And Corina Lecca shows the Christian Siriano spring summer 2009 collection modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Thursday, Sept. 11, 2008 .   (AP Photo/Dan And Corina Lecca)
Models are made up backstage before taking the runway for the spring 2009 Baby Phat collection during Fashion Week in New York, Friday, Sept. 12, 2008.
Models are made up backstage before taking the runway for the spring 2009 Baby Phat collection during Fashion Week in New York, Friday, Sept. 12, 2008.   (AP Photo/Louis Lanzano)
The Marchesa spring 2009 collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Wednesday, Sept. 10, 2008.
The Marchesa spring 2009 collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Wednesday, Sept. 10, 2008.   (AP Photo/Ed Ou)
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It's going to be a lot more about relying on personality and experience, instead of cash. - Designer Andrew Buckler

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