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Michelin Guide Knocks Classic Paris Eatery

After losing crown to Tokyo, more bad news for French cuisine

By Jason Farago,  Newser Staff

Posted Mar 4, 2008 11:10 AM CST

(Newser) – Now that the Michelin food critics have declared Tokyo the world's culinary capital, this week's publication of the 2008 guide to France had the feeling of a day of reckoning. Sure enough, the red book reduces Paris' vaunted Le Grand Véfour from three stars to two, citing inconsistency at a restaurant that predates the French Revolution. "No stars are awarded out of kindness," said the guide's director.

Michelin did find some good things to eat in Paris, reports Bloomberg; it awarded a second star to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a Japanese-inspired countertop eatery. But the only new three-star restaurant is a seafood restaurant in Marseille overlooking the Mediterranean. Achieving three-star status can boost a restaurant's revenue up to 40% as reservations swell, particularly from foreigners.

French chef Gerald Passedat, left, owner of the restaurant Le Petit Nice, poses in his restaurant's kitchen, in Marseille, southern France, Thursday, Feb. 28, 2008. The Michelin Guide, the bible of gastronomy announced the winners and losers of its 2008 edition on Monday, March 3, 2008, Le Petit Nice was...
French chef Gerald Passedat, left, owner of the restaurant Le Petit Nice, poses in his restaurant's kitchen, in Marseille, southern France, Thursday, Feb. 28, 2008. The Michelin Guide, the bible of gastronomy...   (Associated Press)
Le Grand Vefour restaurant in Paris, a two-century-old Paris institution whose famous guests have included the Emperor Napoleon and writer Victor Hugo, lost its coveted third Michelin star on Monday, March 3, 2008. Le Grand Vefour was the only restaurant with the Michelin Guide's highest ranking to be downgraded Monday...
Le Grand Vefour restaurant in Paris, a two-century-old Paris institution whose famous guests have included the Emperor Napoleon and writer Victor Hugo, lost its coveted third Michelin star on Monday,...   (Associated Press)
Le Grand Vefour restaurant in Paris, a two-century-old Paris institution whose famous guests have included the Emperor Napoleon and writer Victor Hugo, lost its coveted third Michelin star on Monday, March 3, 2008. Le Grand Vefour was the only restaurant with the Michelin Guide's highest ranking to be downgraded Monday...
Le Grand Vefour restaurant in Paris, a two-century-old Paris institution whose famous guests have included the Emperor Napoleon and writer Victor Hugo, lost its coveted third Michelin star on Monday,...   (Associated Press)
This photo taken June 9, 2003 shows an aerial view of the restaurant Le Petit Nice (The Small Nice), run and owned by French chef Gerald Passedat in Marseille, southern France. The Michelin Guide, the bible of gastronomy announced the winners and losers of its 2008 edition on Monday, March...
This photo taken June 9, 2003 shows an aerial view of the restaurant Le Petit Nice (The Small Nice), run and owned by French chef Gerald Passedat in Marseille, southern France. The Michelin Guide, the...   (Associated Press)
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