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Decline and Fall of the Jewish Deli

No home country and an Americanized palate spell doom for brisket

By Harry Kimball,  Newser Staff

Posted Dec 28, 2009 11:37 AM CST

(Newser) – The Jewish deli is dying, author David Sax tells New America Media, and there’s not much anyone, Jew or gentile, can do about it. In New York, for instance, there are about two dozen kosher and non-kosher establishments today, down from 1,500 in the 1930s. One of the problems is the rootlessness of the culture. “A Mexican restaurant always has a Mexico to go back to, for its source,” Sax says. With Jewish food, “there is no physical place that you can return to.”

Combine that fleetingness with the famously omnivorous Jewish palate, and “traditional” Jewish food can disappear. “Most people do not keep kosher,” Sax says, “and those who keep kosher will probably cook kosher versions of Chinese food.” There is one bright spot for the Jewish deli: Los Angeles , where they are still community hubs, especially among the entertainment industry. “In other cities, people tend to go to Jewish delicatessens for nostalgia. And nostalgia is a strong, powerful force but it’s not exactly something that bodes well for the future.”

Katz's Delicatessen in New York.
Katz's Delicatessen in New York.   (AP Photo)
A worker slices brisket for a sandwich at Katz's Delicatessen.
A worker slices brisket for a sandwich at Katz's Delicatessen.   (AP Photo)
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In LA , the delis aren’t about nostalgia. Larry King eats at Nate 'n Al’s every single morning. I don’t think he does it just to recapture his childhood in Brooklyn . He does it because this is the place where he goes. - David Sax

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COMMENTS
Showing 3 of 13 comments
Cat-Lover
Jan 8, 2010 9:05 AM CST
Hey, "So-Cal_Larry: Thats's right near where I was born. University Blvd. (I think it is named differently now) and 179th Street. What a small world. Later, in Brooklyn, on St. John's Place near Utica. Great Knishes, but now???
Spudsy
Dec 29, 2009 12:23 PM CST
He did. He is gone now too. Kept some of Jerry's employees which I saw as a damn good thing. Food stayed pretty much the same but the place was known as much for Jerry berating the indecisive customer as it was for the food. In one of my first jobs I was intentionally sent to Jerry's with a faulty order by my co-workers just so I could feel the wrath of Jerry during a lunch rush. It was all in good fun by both sides. Kill for a pastrami sandwich on pumpernickel right about now. Potato pancakes on the side please.
rakewell
Dec 29, 2009 8:01 AM CST
Part of the problem is with the success of the Carnegie Deli these places started positioning themselves as "destination" food instead of just a good, every day meal. $20 for a sandwich that feeds 2 with a $3 charge if you share? Please. (Though now I'm craving real corned beef, dammit.) I know at least a few mom-and-pop places with reasonable prices and no ego that are still going strong.

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