Veal is back, says the Times, thanks to humane ranching methods. You're still eating baby cows, of course, but the tiny crates that once confined them—provoking a 20-year-long boycott—are giving way to to open pastures where they hang with mom. Or at least pens where they walk around and mingle with other calves.
Fans say humane veal tastes better too, and more chefs are embracing the meat at upmarket restaurants. On the other hand, members of the diehard American Veal Association still raise their calves in crates, and say the new stuff shouldn't even be called veal.