It's time to discover the pleasures of aglianico wines, writes Eric Asimov in the New York Times. While many drinkers familiarly sip Chianti and Barolo, aglianico consumption has been largely confined to the diffuse Southern Italian regions where the grape is grown. And while some of the leading aglianicos are unavailable in the United States, there are still winners to be found.
"In an effort to remedy this sad state of affairs," Asimov and his wine panel sampled 25 aglianico wines; only one of the 8 winners cost less than $20, but it was Asimov's favorite. With a price tag of just $10, the 2003 Cantina di Venosa aglianico del Vulture Vignali sung as a wine "dense and pure with classic aglianico flavors of sour cherry, minerals, and leather."