Subtle Cabernets Recall Napa's Heyday

Old-school wineries show 'balance and restraint'
By Michael Foreman,  Newser User
Posted Aug 20, 2008 6:33 PM CDT

(Newser) – Forget "jammy fruit bombs" that crush the palate—subtle cabernets are making a comeback in Napa Valley. "You don’t hear much about these sorts of wines today," writes Eric Asimov in the New York Times. While critics swoon over rich, oaky cabernets, a few wineries still rely on elegant floral and herbal flourishes that made the region famous years ago.

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Unlike modern vineyards, these purists use traditional techniques such as dry farming to produce a lighter, more balanced cabernet. Critics pan the old-school wines as "rustic or green," but Asimov says the floral aromas and flavors are hallmarks of the varietal: "Personally, I would enjoy a lot more Napa cabernets if they were dry, austere and harmonious."   (Read more cabernet sauvignon stories.)

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